The needle is the smallest thing in your kit, but the right one makes every stitch easier. Here's which needle to use, how to prepare and thread your floss, and a few tools that save frustration.
Why cross stitch uses tapestry needles
Cross stitch needles are tapestry needles: they have a blunt, rounded tip and a long eye. The blunt tip slips into the holes of Aida or between the threads of evenweave and linen without piercing the fabric or splitting stitches that are already there. The long eye holds several strands of floss without squashing them.
A sharp embroidery needle works in a pinch, but it catches the fabric and splits strands of floss.
What size needle for which fabric?
Tapestry needles are sized by number, and the higher the number, the finer the needle. A size 22 is bigger than a 24; a 28 is the finest you're likely to use. The needle should slide through a hole easily without forcing it bigger, but shouldn't drop straight through it.
| Fabric | Usual strands | Needle size |
|---|---|---|
| 11 ct Aida | 3 | 22 |
| 14 ct Aida | 2 | 24 |
| 16 ct Aida | 2 | 26 (24 also works) |
| 18 ct Aida | 1–2 | 26 |
| 28 ct evenweave or linen, over two | 2 | 26 or 28 |
| 32 ct evenweave or linen, over two | 1–2 | 28 |
These are starting points, not rules. If the needle drags and leaves the holes looking stretched, go one size finer. If the floss frays at the eye or the needle is fiddly to thread, go one size bigger. Most of our patterns are stitched with two strands on 14 ct Aida, so a pack of size 24 needles covers almost everything. For more on counts, see fabric count and finished size.
Nickel, gold or platinum?
Most tapestry needles are steel with nickel plating. They're inexpensive and perfectly good. You'll also find gold-plated and platinum-plated needles, which many stitchers feel glide through the fabric more smoothly and stay smooth for longer. Gold-plated needles are often suggested for nickel sensitivity, but some have nickel under the plating – check the packaging.
Whichever you choose, needles do wear. The plating can rub off and the steel can tarnish, and then the needle starts to drag. When a needle feels rough, bends or leaves a gray mark on your floss, simply swap it for a new one.
How long a thread should you cut?
Cut your floss about 18 inches (45 cm) long – about the distance from your fingertips to your elbow. Longer threads feel efficient, but every pass through the fabric wears the floss a little, so the end of a long thread gets fuzzy and dull, and it tangles more. Shorter threads mean more starts and ends, but neater stitches.
The exception is the loop start, where you use one strand about 36 inches (90 cm) long folded in half – you still stitch with an 18-inch double strand. It's explained in starting and ending threads.
How to separate floss strands without tangling
Embroidery floss is six thin strands twisted together. Even if you want two strands, separate all of them one at a time and then put the ones you need back together. Strands pulled out as a pair stay twisted round each other and don't cover as well.
- Cut an 18-inch (45 cm) length and hold it near the top between your thumb and finger, with a little bit sticking out above.
- Pinch the end of one strand and pull it slowly straight up and out of the bundle.
- The rest will bunch up below your fingers – that's fine. Once the single strand is free, the bundle relaxes and smooths out again.
- Repeat for the next strand.
- Lay the strands you need side by side with the ends even, and thread them together.
How to thread a needle
Floss is soft and fluffy at the cut end, which is why it won't go through the eye. Cut the end cleanly with sharp scissors first, then try one of these.
The fold method
- Hold the needle in one hand and fold the end of the floss tightly over the needle, close to the eye.
- Pinch the fold hard between your thumb and finger so it's flat and only just showing.
- Slide the needle out of the fold, keeping the pinch.
- Push the eye of the needle down onto the flat fold. The folded floss goes through as a neat loop; pull it through.
This works well for two or more strands, and you don't need any tools.
Using a needle threader
A needle threader is a small diamond-shaped wire loop on a handle. Push the wire through the eye, put the floss through the wire, then pull the wire back out, bringing the floss with it. The fine wire can break if you force several strands through, so be gentle and keep a spare.
Once threaded, leave a tail of a few inches. Slide the needle along the thread now and then so the floss doesn't wear thin in one spot at the eye.
Needle minders and keeping needles safe
A needle minder is a pair of magnets, often with a decorative top. One half goes on the front of your fabric and one on the back, and you park your needle on it whenever you stop to check the chart or put your work down. It's much safer than leaving the needle in the fabric.
Try not to leave a needle threaded through your fabric between sessions: over time it can leave a mark or a stretched hole. A pincushion, a needle minder or a small needle case keeps them safe and easy to find.
Next: How much fabric do I need?.
Frequently asked questions
What size needle do I need for 14 count Aida?
A size 24 tapestry needle is the standard choice for 14 count Aida with two strands of floss. A size 22 also works if you find the 24 hard to thread.
What needle should I use for 28 count linen?
Use a size 26 or 28 tapestry needle when stitching over two on 28 count evenweave or linen. A 26 is easier to thread; a 28 slips between the finer threads more smoothly.
Can I use a regular sewing needle for cross stitch?
It's better not to. Sharp needles split the fabric and the floss and catch on existing stitches. Blunt tapestry needles are inexpensive and make stitching much easier.
Do gold-plated needles make a difference?
Many stitchers feel they glide more smoothly and stay smooth longer than standard nickel-plated needles. They're a nice upgrade but not essential – nickel-plated needles work perfectly well.
Why does my floss keep twisting and tangling?
Long threads, strands separated in pairs instead of one at a time, and the natural twist from stitching all cause tangles. Cut 18-inch lengths, separate each strand, and let the needle hang freely now and then so the floss can untwist.
How often should I change my needle?
Change it when it feels rough, drags through the fabric, bends or starts marking the floss. There's no fixed schedule; it depends on how much you stitch.
