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Aida vs. evenweave vs. linen: which fabric to choose

The differences between Aida, evenweave and linen for cross stitch – counts, stitching over two, pros and cons, and tips for colored and dark fabric.


Any of our patterns can be stitched on Aida, evenweave or linen – the chart is the same, only the fabric changes. Each fabric has its own feel, look and learning curve. Here's how they compare.

Aida

Aida is a cotton fabric woven in little blocks with a clear hole at each corner. Every cross stitch covers one block, so there's no guessing where the needle goes.

  • Counts: most often 11, 14, 16 and 18 stitches per inch.
  • Pros: easy to see and count, stiff enough to stitch with or without a hoop, widely available and affordable. The best choice for beginners and for bold, colorful designs.
  • Cons: the grid of holes stays visible in unstitched areas, and the fabric is stiffer, with less drape – a bit less elegant for heirloom pieces.

Evenweave

Evenweave is woven from single threads, with the same number of threads per inch in both directions. The threads are uniform, usually cotton or a cotton blend.

  • Counts: commonly 25, 28 and 32 threads per inch.
  • Pros: a smoother, softer, more refined look than Aida; drapes nicely; the even threads make it easier than linen to count.
  • Cons: you count threads rather than blocks, which takes some getting used to; it usually costs more than Aida.

Linen

Linen is woven from flax. Like evenweave it's stitched by counting threads, but the threads vary a little in thickness, with natural slubs – thicker spots along the thread.

  • Counts: commonly 28, 32, 36 and 40 threads per inch.
  • Pros: beautiful natural texture and drape, a soft hand-made look, and a classic choice for samplers and heirloom pieces.
  • Cons: the uneven threads make counting harder, it's the most expensive of the three, and it wrinkles easily. Best once you're comfortable with evenweave.

Stitching “over two”

On evenweave and linen, each cross stitch normally covers two threads across and two threads up – that's called stitching over two. It halves the count, so:

  • 28 count over two = 14 stitches per inch, the same finished size as 14 ct Aida;
  • 32 count over two = 16 stitches per inch, the same as 16 ct Aida.

That's why our pattern covers list the finished size on 28 ct linen alongside the Aida sizes.

11 CT0.82 in14 CT0.64 in16 CT0.56 in18 CT0.50 in1 inch
Higher counts give smaller, finer stitches. 28 count over two matches 14 ct Aida.
TipWhen you stitch over two, many stitchers start each cross next to a vertical thread on the same side every time. It keeps the stitches from slipping under a single thread and makes them look even.

Side by side

Aida Evenweave Linen
Stitch over 1 block 2 threads 2 threads
Common counts 11–18 25–32 28–40
Ease of counting Easiest Moderate Hardest
Look Crisp, visible grid Smooth, refined Natural, textured
Best for Beginners, bold designs Smoother finish Heirlooms, samplers

Colored and dark fabrics

All three fabrics come in many colors, not just white. Remember that unstitched squares show the fabric, so the fabric color becomes part of the design. A light design with a lot of open background can look completely different on cream, gray or black.

Dark fabric makes bright colors glow, but it's harder to see the holes. A few things help:

  • Stitch in good daylight or under a daylight lamp.
  • Lay something white on your lap – a towel or a sheet of paper – so light shows through the holes.
  • Use enough strands for full coverage; two strands on 14 ct is a good start.
  • Check your darkest floss colors against the fabric before you begin – very dark shades can almost disappear.

Our free Victorian Cameo set was designed with this in mind: the ornate gold frames around each cameo show best on dark fabric such as black, navy or burgundy Aida. Pick it up on our free patterns page.

For most of our other patterns, white, ivory or antique white Aida, evenweave or linen all work – the cover suggests a fabric where it matters. New to all this? Start with getting started, and read how much floss you need before you shop.

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